If the capital city of Hamilton is Bermuda’s beating heart, the historic town of St. George is the country’s soul. Few people visit this enchant- ing town without vowing to return someday. St. George? St. George’s? The names can be confusing, but once you know that St. George’s is one of nine Bermuda parishes and St. George is a town within the parish of St. George’s, it all becomes clear. (Until you hear someone refer to the town as St. George’s!) In 2000, St. George was recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its continuous occupation since the early 1600s and the number and diversity of its fortifications. Tucked in the north-east corner of the archi- pelago, it is here in old St. George that one finds the essence of Bermuda. Meander along roads with names like Featherbed Alley, Taylors Alley and Old Maid’s Lane, peek into pocket gardens bright with frangipani and hibiscus, and absorb island history in one of its many museums. Start with a glimpse into everyday life in a private home in 18th-century Bermuda by visit- ing St. George’s Historical Society Museum on Duke of Kent Street. (297-0423) Next, stop at the Bermuda National Trust Museum in the former Globe Hotel on Duke of York Street, where the “Rogues and Runners” exhibition on the second floor relates Bermuda’s role in running war materials to the American South during the U.S. Civil War and rum dur- ing Prohibition. There is also a treasure trove of exhibits relating to the building’s long history, the 12-minute film Bermuda: Centre of the Atlantic, and a gift shop. (297-1423) You can also learn about the slave ship Enterprize at the Bermudian Heritage Museum. In 1835, when the American ship blew off course and was forced ashore on Bermuda, slaves on board were told they were welcome to remain as free men and women or return to the U.S. All but six chose to stay. (297-4126) past encounters Museums provide insight into the history of St. George, but it is by walking its narrow streets that one truly gets to know the town. Most visitors are drawn to the waterfront, where, on Ordnance Island, a statue of Sir Experience Bermuda 2010 | 11 5 George Somers keeps watch over the town he played an important role in founding. In 1609, a fleet of nine British ships loaded with supplies and colonists headed to Jamestown, Va., ran into a heavy storm. One of the ships, Sea Venture, foundered on a reef off St. George. Somers, admiral of the fleet, was aboard Sea Venture, and under his command the settlers and crew on the doomed vessel were saved. Salvaging what they could from the wreckage, Somers and Sir Thomas Gates oversaw the construction of Deliverance and a smaller ship, Patience, which eventually sailed on to Jamestown in time to rescue the settlers there from starvation. A replica of Deliverance on the waterfront is a popular stop for visitors. It seems, however, that the months Somers spent on the islands had made a lasting impres- sion. In 1610 he returned, planning to restock the Virginia colony once again with wild pigs and crops. Somers died before he could make the trip, but he truly left his heart in Bermuda; it is buried in Somers Garden, while the rest of his remains were shipped to his hometown in England. Somers’ journeys sparked interest among other settlers, who soon arrived and established the Town of St. George. .....................................continued on pg. 8 Meander along roads with names like Featherbed Alley, Taylors Alley and Old Maid’s Lane, peek into pocket gardens bright with frangipani and hibiscus and absorb island history in one of its many museums.